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| ⇒ Country Profile: Bosnia and Herzegovina |
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Introduction
Most notable among Bosnia and Herzegovina's charms is its lush, mountainous landscape, best seen from the vantage point of one of the national parks. To some, the country remains synonymous with the Yugoslav wars that ravaged the Balkan region in the 1990s; it still bears the legacy of this, having a fractured infrastructure and a countryside that remains littered with mines in some regions.
However, there are plenty of positives to take from Bosnia and Herzegovina's urban centres, especially the cosmopolitan capital of Sarajevo with its Turkish heritage and lively cafe scene. Elsewhere there are historic fortresses, splendid old mosques, monasteries and Catholic shrines to enjoy. But perhaps above all else, it is the reconstructed Ottoman bridge at Mostar that symbolises both the past and a positive new beginning for the country.
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Accommodation
Hotels:
Sarajevo has a wide choice of hotels that range from simple 1-star establishments to luxurious 5-star international. Other cities generally have a narrower choice. In recent years a number of smaller, privately run hotels and motels have also opened up throughout the country.
Bed and breakfast:
These can be found in some of the more touristy areas of the country.
Other accommodation:
These are rooms in private houses that may be booked through some travel agencies or simply by knocking on doors where signs of 'sobe' or 'zimmer' are displayed. English may not be spoken, nor breakfast provided, but they are generally clean and comfortable.
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Getting There
Flying to Bosnia and Herzegovina
The national airline is B&H Airlines (JA) (www.bhairlines.ba), which operates flights from European cities to Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo.
Travel by rail
Rail services link Sarajevo, Mostar, Doboj and Banja Luka to Zagreb, Belgrade, Ljubljana and Ploce. However, services are slow; the Sarajevo-Zagreb and Sarajevo-Belgrade journeys both take around 9 hours.
Rail passes:
InterRail: offers unlimited first- or second-class travel in up to 30 European countries for European residents of over six months with two pass options. The Global Pass allows travel for 22 days, one month, five days in 10 days or 10 days in 22 days across all countries. Travellers under 26 years receive a reduction. Children's tickets are reduced by about 50%. Supplements are required for some high-speed services, seat reservations and couchettes. Discounts are offered on Eurostar and some ferry routes. Available from Rail Europe (www.raileurope.co.uk/inter-rail).
Driving to Bosnia and Herzegovina
It is possible to enter the country by car from Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro.
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Sightseeing
Banja Luka
The country's second largest city and administrative capital of the Republika Srpska, Banja Luka is home to the well-preserved Tvrdjava Fortress. In the countryside nearby are several Orthodox monasteries to visit.
Bascarsija district
Shop for souvenirs in Sarajevo's Bascarsija district, and stop to enjoy a traditional Turkish coffee at one of its many cafés.
Beach
For Bosnia & Herzegovina's only beach head to Neum at the short stretch of coast that divides Croatia's Dalmatian seashore.
Bihac
See the most western Muslim settlement in Europe in the Bihac pocket in northwestern Bosnia & Herzegovina, close to the Croatian border. As well as being home to the Fathija Mosque, formerly a church, the town is also a superb base for rafting on the Una River.
Blagaj
Visit the dervish tekkija at the base of a 200m (656ft) cliff in Blagaj, a peaceful village that lies just a half-day trip from Mostar.
Hiking
Bosnia & Herzegovina's mountainous landscape provides numerous hill-walking opportunities, although it is imperative to avoid areas where landmines still pose a threat. Bjelasnica Mountain offers the potential for combined hiking, rafting and village tourism.
Medjugorje
The world's second most visited Catholic shrine, Medjugorje, south of Mostar, is where many claim to have seen apparitions of the Virgin Mary. Despite hundreds of thousands of annual visitors, it is yet to be recognised as an official pilgrimage site by the Vatican.
Mostar
Visit Mostar to see the elegant Ottoman bridge that links the two sides of the town across the Neretva River. The original 16th-century bridge was destroyed in the war but it has since been reconstructed with Turkish help. In addition, the town also has 16th- and 17th-century mosques, medieval buildings and cobbled streets that survived the war completely.
Sarajevo
See how 500 years of Turkish rule have left their trace on Bosnia & Herzegovina's capital, Sarajevo. The Turkish quarter (Bascarsija) and the town centre have been largely rebuilt and the city, although scarred by war, is coming back to life. The colourful bazaars are testament to the city's Ottoman heritage and present-day energy.
Sarajevo Film Festival
Attend the Sarajevo Film Festival (www.sff.ba), the most popular of all of Sarajevo's festivals, held in August. The festival showcases films from mostly neighbouring countries that consistently produce films of an excellent artistic standard.
Sutjeska National Park
Witness the wildlife and the unspoilt beauty of Sutjeska National Park. It contains Maglic Mountain - at 2,368m (7,769ft), the highest point in Bosnia and Herzegovina - and Perucica Forest, one of the last remaining primeval forests in Europe.
Watersports
Go whitewater rafting along one of the country's many mountain rivers. Rafting tours are available along the Neretva, Una and Tara rivers, which offer some of the most exciting locations in Europe for this activity. Kayaking is another water sport for which Bosnia & Herzegovina offers great potential.
Winter Festival
The Winter Festival (www.sarajevskazima.ba) in Sarajevo (usually held in February/March) is an arts festival established long before the war in the 1990s and, indeed, was determinedly held every year during the siege (the festival is usually bi-annual). The festival is a two-month celebration of worldwide talent and is a symbol and celebration of creativity and freedom within diverse cultures.
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Transport
Travel by road is the usual means of transport in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
During winter and spring, block ice and landslides can make driving difficult.
Road conditions are still poor, but many roads are now being restored.
The safety and condition of urban roads is generally fair, although rural road maintenance is seriously lacking.
The risk of landmines has decreased in the last few years, as most mines remaining from the war are now clearly marked.
However, visitors are still advised to exercise caution when travelling outside main cities and towns.
Caution should also be taken when driving at night or during winter. Drivers should keep to the main roads. The capital, Sarajevo, is the nodal point for all Bosnia and Herzegovina's main communications routes, which go west to Banja Luka, and then to Zagreb, capital of Croatia; north to Doboj, and then to Osijek in Croatia; east to Zvornik, and then to Belgrade in Serbia; south to Mostar, and then the Adriatic Sea; and southeast to Foca, and then to Podgorica, Montenegro.
Emergency breakdown service: Tel: 987.
Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required. All Green Cards, etc, should include cover for the 20km-strip of coastline at Neum on the Dalmatian Coast highway.
Rail:
Rail links between Bosnia and Herzegovina and Republika Srpska have been restored. In addition, a few local services are operating.
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